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Log inExtremely long, but informative guide on EVERYTHING!
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Extremely long, but informative guide on EVERYTHING!
3moons Fri Dec 18, 2009 1:12 am
If you will read this, and follow its guide lines, you will be an excellent TW player. Everything you will ever need to know, is here. And most important, a LOT of things you would NEVER have known, if not for reading this.
It can get a little confusing at times, so if there is something you don't understand, by all means, just ask me, and I will explain.
Contents
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A: Troop guild lines
B: Defensive guide
B1: How to pick the ultimate defensive units ratio?
B2: How to pick the ultimate offensive units ratio?
B3: Finally We are Running some Simulations
B4: Some concluding thoughts
C: Definitions of village types
C1: Purpose of Village Specialization
C1a: What you should do if you have only 1 village?
C1b: What you should do if you have 2 villages?
C1c: What you should do if you have 3 villages?
C1d: What you should do if you have 4 villages or more?
C2: Why do I prefer LCs to all other offensive units?
C3: Pure defensive village VS Combo defensive village
C4: Pure LCs/MAs/axes offensive village VS combo offensive village
D: Farming guide
D1: Basic Farmer
D2: Intermediate Farmer
D3: Advanced Farmer
E: Advanced TW strategies
E1: Defense
E2: Offense
E3: Scouting
E4: What is a fake attack?
E5: How to effectively attack a player with multiple villages?
E6: Noble Train
E7: Dodging an incoming attack
E8: Nobling Snipers
E9: Rams and Cats
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A: Troop guildlines
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Villages of 1,000–1,500 points: Level 16 wall and 0.7 defensive troops to point ratio.
Villages of 1,500–2,000 points: Level 18 wall and 0.8 defensive troops to point ratio.
Villages of 2,000–3,000 points: Level 20 wall and 0.9 defensive troops to point ratio.
Villages of >3,000 points: Level 20 wall and at least 3,200 defensive troops.
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B: Defensive guide
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The purpose of this document is to share my meager experiences and understandings with offense and defense in TW. This document is going to be quite long, so you might want to skip it now if you don't have time. Please do not share this document with anyone outside our tribe as it concerns various defense/offense strategy that we might choose to adopt. Please feel free to give positive or negative comments or any corrections
regarding this document.
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B1: How to pick the ultimate defensive units ratio?
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I would like to propose that the use of the offense/defense simulator should be reserved only for one purpose, and that is to test the result of your attack before actually making it. I would like to propose that the use of the simulator will tend to confuse you if you make extensive use of it to determine the best ratio for defensive units. It will also tend to confuse you if you are trying to pick the best offense units ratio. I will discuss offensive units ratio in the next section.
If you do not use the simulator, how do you determine the best defensive units ratio? The answer is actually more simple and straightforward than you could imagine.
For all units, there are 3 defense parameters. They are General Defense (GD), Cavalry Defense (CD) and Archer Defense (AD).
Let's look at the GD/CD/AD of the 3 defensive units (minus the heavy cavalry.):
--
Spears: 15/45/20
Total of GD/CD/AD added up is: 80
Cost: 90 resources and 1 villager
Swords: 50/15/40
Total of GD/CD/AD added up is: 105
Cost: 130 resources and 1 villager
Archers: 50/40/5
Total of GD/CD/AD added up is: 95
Cost: 190 resources and 1 villager
--
I went into such details because I would like to ask 2 questions:
1. Does the total of the GD/CD/AD matter?
2. Why is it that every single unit has some kind of weakness?
For the first question:
Does the total of the GD/CD/AD matter?
--
The total of the GD/CD/AD does matter!! It matters so much that you wouldn't believe it. This is because the total of the GD/CD/AD are your defense power against the 3 kinds of offensive units, the more you have, the more you are able to withstand the 3 kinds of offensive attacks. Now, take note of which two units have the highest GD/CD/AD total.
--
For the second question:
Why is it that every single unit has some kind of weakness?
--
This question is the very reason for a defensive unit ratio. Each of the 3 defense units alone will have a weakness, but if you put 2 or more of these units together, their defensive strength averages up and the strength of one defensive unit cancels out the weakness of another!
Another way to look at this is that when you combine 2 or more different units together, you essential created a new kind of unit with the defensive strength of the average of the 2 or more kind.
For example, if you put a spear and a sword together, you get:
spear: 15/45/20
sword: 50/15/40
Together: 32.5/30/30
GD = (15+50)/2 = 32.5
CD = (45+15)/2 = 30
AD = (20+40)/2 = 30
Therefore, when you put the spear and the sword together, you have created or designed a new unit with GD/CD/AD of 32.5/30/30. This might be a paradigm shift for some of you, but I want you to keep this concept in mind.
--
Since the number of villagers for each village is limited by a level 30 farm, which supports 24,000 villagers, you have to be extremely selective about the kind of defensive units you have so as to maximize your defensive strength.
Now let's look at 3 reasonable and common ratios for defensive units:
--
spears/swords 1:1 ratio
GD/CD/AD: 32.5/30/30
Total GD/CD/AD: 92.5
spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio
GD/CD/AD: 38.33/33.33/21.66
Total GD/CD/AD: 93.32
swords/archers 1:1 ratio
GD/CD/AD: 50/27.5/22.5
Total GD/CD/AD: 100
--
Remember I told you that you should not use a simulator when determining defensive unit ratio? The simple reason is that you could average up the GD/CD/AD of the ratio you chose and determine the best ratio just by looking at the GD/CD/AD of the ratio you created. Another point is that the total GD/CD/AD is very important as the higher your total GD/CD/AD, the more defense you have generally (This is especially crucial if your attacker could not scout you successfully.)
If we classify defense strength as follows:
10 - 20: poor
20 - 30: average
30 - 40: good
40 - 50: excellent
The "spears/swords 1:1 ratio" has a low good defense for GD and
average defense for everything else.
The "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" has good defense for GD, good defense for CD and average defense for AD.
The "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" has godly defense for GD, and average defense for both CD and AD. However, notice that the CD is higher than AD.
Now, isn't this much simpler and clear than running a few hundred
simulations? I will promise you that it will become even more clear if you read my section on the offense ratio.
I would propose that we should pick the ultimate defense ratio based on 2 criteria:
1. Total GD/CD/AD.
2. The villagers/performance ratio of the offense units.
If we based our decision solely on the total GD/CD/AD, the
"swords/archers 1:1 ratio" wins.
What is the villagers/performance ratio of the offensive units?
--
The villagers/performance ratio of the offensive units is the amount of offensive strength you get for each villager you use on an offensive unit.
Thefore, here are the villagers/performance ratio of axemen, light cavalry and mounted archer:
--
axemen:
villagers: 1
offensive strength: 40
villagers/performance ratio: 40/1 = 40
light cavalry:
villagers: 4
offensive strength: 130
villagers/performance ratio: 130/4 = 32.5
mounted archer:
villagers: 5
offensive strength: 120
villagers/performance ratio: 120/5 = 24
--
Based on the villagers/performance ratio, if we know that the largest offensive force can only consist of an army made up of 23,000 villagers, we could have 23,000 axemen OR 5,750 light cavalry (23000/4) OR 4,600 mounted archers (23000/5).
Total maximum offensive strength of axemen = 23,000 * 40 = 920,000
Total maximum offensive strength of light cavalry = 5,750 * 130 = 747,500
Total maximum offensive strength of axemen = 4,600 * 120 = 552,000
Based on the information provided by the maximum offensive strength of each offensive units, you want a lot of defense for axemen, followed by a lesser amount for light cavalary and an even lesser amount for mounted archer.
The "spears/swords 1:1 ratio" has only a low good defense (GD: 32.5) against axemen, so it will suffer greatly against an axemen attack, so this ratio is out.
The "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" has good defense against axemen and light cavalry and also adequate defense against mounted archers.
The "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" has a godly defense against axemen (GD: 50), very nice! Furthermore, it has average but adequate defenses against the light cavalry and mounted archers.
From the above analysis, "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" is superior to "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" when defending against light cavalry, however, the "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" is significantly more superior to "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" when it comes to axemen defense. Therefore, it would be a personal preference on whether to pick either the "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" or "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" as each has it's own strength.
However, I feel that the "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" is superior because it has a higher total GD/CD/AD than "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio"
and would fare better on a mixed offensive force comprising of axemen, light cavalry and mounted archers.
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B2: How to pick the ultimate offensive units ratio?
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If a defender has 123 spears, 251 swords, 80 archers, 50 light cavalry and 200 axemen, how do you pick your offensive units ratio? Would you use the simulator again? Is there an easier way? The answer is yes!
Some people recommend that you should use light cavalry against swords, axemen against spears and mounted archer against archer. But unfortunately, life is not so simple when you face 123 spears, 251 swords, 80 archers, 50 light cavalry and 200 axemen. Furthermore, the combat system in TW is such that when you face such a diverse army, it is not the case that your
axemen will fight only against the defender's spears and slaughter them only, but that your axemen has to fight spears, swords, archers, light cavalry and also axemen all together! Units like swords and archers will slaughter your axemen.
So, what is the best way to determine the best offensive force to use against a diverse defensive army? The easiest and most effective way is to total up all the defensive strength (GD/CD/AD) for all the defensive force and use only one type of offensive unit that is best against the weakest total defensive strength of the diverse army. I know this might sound complex, but let me give you a simple example:
--
If you face a diverse army of 1 spear, 2 archers and 3 swords, here are their GD/CD/AD:
spear: 15/45/20
sword: 50/15/40
archer: 50/40/5
(3 swords is 150/30/120)
(2 archers is 100/80/10)
Total for 1 spear, 2 archers and 3 swords is: 265/155/150
This means that this diverse defense force is the weakest on AD (150 only), so you should send in only mounted archers. Some might ask: should I also send in my extra axemen? This is a very crucial question and the answer is: "Not if you can help it". For this case, if you have enough mounted archers to nicely defeat the defender, then you should never send in any other offensive
units. This is because for example, if you send axemen in addition to mounted archers, your axemen is fighting against a stronger GD (265!!) while your mounted archers is fighting against a weak AD (150 only). Your axemen will suffer a larger casualty compared to your mounted archers and therefore sending your axemen will mess things up and increase your overall casualties. If you don't believe this, run a few simulations and you will see the light.
As an attacker, keep this powerful thought in mind: You get to pick the defense (GD/CD/AD) that you fight against. Pick the weakest!!!
--
All these offensive strategy is based on the assumption that you could successfully scout your enemy. Therefore scouting is of paramount importance, it is like winning half the battle. I guess it is understandable that people devote a whole village to producing scouts. Also, try your best not to let your enemy scout your village, but however, even if they managed to scout your village, the "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" ensures that you have the
best chance of survival. In fact, in the next section you will learn that no single offensive force exist in TW to defeat the ultimate
"swords/archers 1:1 ratio" defense force.
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B3: Finally We are Running some Simulations
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Let's run simulations on our best defensive units ratio against the 3 largest offensive force possible. The defense force and offense force will each comprise of 23,000 villagers.
Based on the "swords/archers 1:1 ratio", we have 11,500 swords and 11,500 archers, protected by a level 20 wall.
23,000 axemen vs 11,500 archers/11,500 swords (level 20 wall):
--
Attacker: 23,000 axemen
Attacker casulties: 23,000 axemen
Defender: 11,500 archers/11,500 swords
Defender casulties: 2,765 archers/2,765 swords
--
WOW!! The defenders lost so little and slaughtered the largest axemen army in TW. Infact, the defenders could slaughter 3 such armies in a row and only get slaughtered by the 4th army of 23,000 axemen if you run the simulator a few times, each round decreasing the number of defenders casulties.
5,750 light cavalry vs 11,500 archers/11,500 swords (level 20 wall):
--
Attacker: 5,750 light cavalry
Attacker casulties: 5,750 light cavalry
Defender: 11,500 archers/11,500 swords
Defender casulties: 4,962 archers/4,962 swords
--
4,600 mounted archer vs 11,500 archers/11,500 swords (level 20 wall):
--
Attacker: 4,600 mounted archer
Attacker casulties: 4,600 mounted archer
Defender: 11,500 archers/11,500 swords
Defender casulties: 4,254 archers/4,254 swords
--
When attacked by light cavalry or mounted archers, the defenders lost less than 50% of the army. Also, the defenders are able to slaughter 2 full rounds of mounted archers attackers and almost 2 full rounds of light cavalry before getting annihilated.
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B4: Some concluding thoughts
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Imagine you have 2 villages with 11,500 archers/11,500 swords in each village. Imagine that these 2 villages are only next to each other. When one village is under massive attack, you send all the 11,500 archers/11,500 swords from the unattacked village to support the attacked village. What kind of offensive army will be needed to defeat this strategy? What if you have 3 such villages? Your attackers will be so depressed when you keep slaughtering their forces.
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C: Definitions of village types
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Offensive units - LCs, MAs, axes.
Defensive units - spears, swords, archers, HCs. (Just treat HCs as 4 swords during defense and 6 swords during offense. Since HCs are so similar to swords, I classify HC as a defensive unit.)
Mixed village - This village has a mix of offensive and defensive units.
Pure defensive village - This village only has defensive units, and the defensive units are only limited to spears/swords/archers.
Combo defensive village - This village only has defensive units, and the defensive units are spears/swords/archers and HCs.
Pure LCs offensive village - This village only has LCs and rams/cats as offensive units.
Pure axes offensive village - This village only has axes and rams/cats as offensive units.
Pure MAs offensive village - This village only has MAs and rams/cats as offensive units.
Combo offensive village - This village consist of "LCs and axes" OR "MAs and axes" and rams/cats as offensive units.
Trashy offensive village - This village consist of LCs AND MAs AND axes. If you read my guide on offense/defense, there is no such thing as an offensive ratio, so anyone who believes in an offensive ratio is seriously deluded. So, never build a trashy offensive village consisting of all the offensive unit types.
Pure scouts village - This village only has scouts.
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C1: Purpose of Village Specialization
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Each village can only support a maximum 24,000 villagers. Therefore, it is of paramount importance that you should be very selective of how you want to use these limited amount of villages because these villages limits the following:
1. The maximum number of offensive/defensive units you could build.
2. The buildings you could build.
Assuming that you have devoted 2,000 villagers to buildings, you are left with 22,000 villagers for units. Therefore, 22,000 villagers is your limit for this village and it is what you could work with. If you devote 11,000 villagers for offensive units, then you are left with 11,000 villagers for defensive units.
As you could easily figure out, the larger the size of your offensive units, the easier it is to wipe out your enemy. Therefore, when you have multiple villages, you would ALWAYS want to specialize your villages. The villagers limit does not affect your defensive units as much as your offensive units as you could
easily gather defensive units from other villages. So, it is theoretically possible to have 100,000 swords, 100,000 archers and 100,000 spears defending a single village due to support from other villages. However, a single wave of your offensive force can only consist of a maximum of 24,000 villages (minus
the villagers for your buildings), so you want to devote as many villagers as you possibly can on offensive units so as to maximize the damage you could inflict in a single wave of attack.
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C1a: What you should do if you have only 1 village?
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Your first village should not be specialized until you have more villages. I would recommend build LCs ONLY, in addition to your spears/swords/archers. Use your spears/swords/archers to farm nearby villages and LCs to farm villages far away. If you are diligent in building your troops, you should have pretty good defenses and about 2,000 LCs by the time you want to noble a village.
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C1b: What you should do if you have 2 villages?
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You should continue to build up your first village as a mixed village and your second village as a defensive village. Only build spears/swords/archers in your second village for now. The second village should preferably be close to your first village for mutual support. I will discuss more about your options for a defensive village later in this guide.
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C1c: What you should do if you have 3 villages?
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When you have 3 villages, your third village should be an offensive village. I would recommend a pure LCs offensive village for your third village for farming and attack purposes. Your second village should remain as a defensive village and your first village should slowly transit to a pure defensive village. Why do I recommend your first village be a pure defensive village onsisting only of spears/swords/archers? This is because your first village
comes with a paladin, and during a support mission, your spears/swords/archers move at the speed of your accompanying paladin. So, you could treat your first village as a super strong and highly mobile defense to be used when your other villages are under attack. After you have sufficiently built up your third village as a pure LCs offensive village, you should slowly kill off the LCs in your first village and transit your first village to a pure defensive village.
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C1d: What you should do if you have 4 villages or more?
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After you obtain your 4th village, you could build any ratio of offensive and defensive village, depending on your playing style. If you are a highly defensive player, you could build 2 or 3 defensive villages for every one offensive village. If you are a highly offensive player, you could build 1 defensive village for 1 offensive village or 1 defensive village for 2 offensive village and so on. At some point, you would want to build a pure scout village with 11k scouts.
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C2: Why do I prefer LCs to all other offensive units?
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Here are the reasons:
1. LCs are super good at farming and I'm a hardcore farmer.
2. LCs builds much faster than MAs or axes in terms of offensive strength.
3. LCs use up a lot of my spare iron.
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C3: Pure defensive village VS Combo defensive village
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Pure defensive village - This village only has defensive units, and the defensive units are only limited to spears/swords/archers.
Combo defensive village - This village only has defensive units, and the defensive units are spears/swords/archers and HCs.
As you can see, the only difference is HCs. But why add HCs to the mix?
Here are a few reasons:
1. HCs are good for speedy support to your villages or the villages of your tribe members, especially since you have only 1 single paladin and you might not want to commit the paladin with your huge defense from your main village to somewhere else. You will begin to see the usefulness of HCs as you have more and more villages.
2. HCs are built by the stable, so you could use your barracks to build your spears/swords/archers and concurrently use your stable to build HCs. Let me assure you that your spears/swords/archers build very very slowly even with level 25 barracks. So, you could build up a stronger defense in a shorter time when you use your barracks and stable concurrently.
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C4: Pure LCs/MAs/axes offensive village VS combo offensive village
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Pure LCs offensive village - This village only has LCs and rams/cats as offensive units.
Pure axes offensive village - This village only has axes and rams/cats as offensive units.
Pure MAs offensive village - This village only has MAs and rams/cats as offensive units.
Combo offensive village - This village consist of "LCs and axes" OR "MAs and axes" and rams/cats as offensive units.
If you read my guide on offense/defense, a pure offensive force is able to strike more effectively, i.e., cause more damage and take less casualties than a combo offensive force. However, a pure offensive village takes a longer time to build and rebuild. The only reason for a combo offensive village consisting of "LCs and axes" OR "MAs and axes" is that you could use your barracks and stable concurrently, thus building and rebuilding your offensive
forces faster than a pure offensive village. Take note that using your barracks and stable concurrently is very resource intensive. I would recommend the combo offensive village only if you are a very aggressive player (i.e., attack someone everyday.). An averagely aggressive player would do very well with a pure offensive village.
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D: Farming guide
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To become extremely powerful in TW, you MUST farm
My dear fellow tribe members, let me make a very profound statement to you. To become extremely powerful in TW, you MUST farm and you MUST farm a lot.
Then you ask: How many resources can I possibly farm? Is it significant?
You could get 2,619 resources from an abandoned village with the lowest possible point, if the village is filled to the fullest with produced resources. Imagine that you farm 15 of these tiny villages 2 time a day (total of 30 times a day). That is a total of 78,570 resources extra!! Of course, you don't always get to farm a village that is full. Even if every time you farm, the villages are half full, you would still get 39,285 resources extra a day. 39k resources a day is 390k resources in 10 days and in a month, you will get more than 1 million resources extra!! Using these extra resources, you get to build a bigger army and a better village than your neighbors. All these resources add up day after day and slowly, you will be stronger and stronger than your neighbors.
Now, imagine that you purposely disable a few 500/1000 points village such that they don't have defenses, the resources that was farm could increase dramatically!
You do have to spend extra time sending troops to farm villages, but that is the price you have to pay to become more powerful faster than all your peers. The choice is yours to make.
Look around my village. It is not hard to notice that I am much stronger than all my neighbors. My secret is simply that I farm a lot!
Here are some suggestions on how you could be a better farmer:
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D1: Basic Farmer
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1. Use anything you have to farm, may it be spears/swords/archers/axemen.
2. Spears are superior to swords/archers/axemen for farming.
3. Farm any abandoned villages close to you.
4. Farm any non-abandoned villages that are 100 to 200 points. Scout these villages before sending troops if possible. Look at the twplus graph to determine if these villages are not growing for some time.
4. Try to build LCs as soon as possible. Don't build any MAs as MAs are not good for farming.
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D2: Intermediate Farmer
-----------------------
1. You already have between 200 to 500 LCs.
2. You have disabled a few villages of about 500 points and turned them into productive farms.
3. You are farming many villages within 10 fields of your village.
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D3: Advanced Farmer
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1. You have more than 1,000 LCs with at least 100 rams and 100 cats.
2. You have disabled a few villages of 1,000 points or more and turned them into extremely productive farms.
3. You are farming all the farmable villages within 10 fields of your village.
4. Even at this level, don't be afraid to use your defensive units like spears/swords/archers for farming nearby villages. You could use defensive units to farm nearby villages and LCs to farm far away villages as this will allow you to farm more villages.
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E: Advanced TW strategies
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E1: Defense
-----------
I've seen this too often so I'll repeat it again. Do not EVER use offensive units for defense or defensive units for offense. Offensive units are LCs/MAs/axes and defensive units are spears/swords/archers/HCs. Treat HCs as 4 swords during defense and 6 swords during offense.
Here are the typical defensive ratios:
--------------------
swords/archers 1:1 ratio:
1. Best defensive ratio.
2. Most costly and takes the longest time to build.
3. Super strong against axes and defensive units.
--------------------
spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio:
1. Second best defensive ratio.
2. Strong against LCs.
--------------------
spears/swords 1:1 ratio:
1. Third best defensive ratio.
2. Very fast and cheap to build.
2. Weak against axes and defensive units but strongest
of the 3 ratios against MAs.
--------------------
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E2: Offense
-----------
There is no such thing as an offensive ratio. The most effective offense is to send a pure LCs or MAs or axes offensive force against the weakness of the village. i.e., send LCs only when you see more swords or HCs. Send axes only if you see more spears and send MAs only if you see more spears or archers. As you can see, MAs replaces the function of axes. So, you could have many
pure LCs pure offensive village and perhaps one pure MAs offensive village for extremely skewed defenses.
Personally, I feel that the best offensive unit in the game are LCs because:
1. LCs are super good at farming and I'm a hardcore farmer.
2. LCs builds much faster than MAs or axes in terms of offensive strength.
3. LCs use up a lot of my spare iron.
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E3: Scouting
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NEVER attack a village without successfully scouting it first. I repeat, NEVER attack a village without successfully scouting it first. If you make this mistake, you might get away for a while, but it will cost you dearly, eventually. NEVER make a judgment on the defenses of a village based on its points. To know the truth, you must scout it.
To ensure a successful scout, build a pure scouts village with 11k scouts.
To defend against 11k scouts, build 2 pure scouts village with 11k scouts each.
--------------------------
E4: What is a fake attack?
--------------------------
A fake attack is defined as an attack that seeks to distract the defender from the real attack. It could also be used as a mere disturbance to the defender.
The cheapest fake attack consist of 5 scouts. If you have a combo fake attack pairing scouts with any other unit type, thus forcing the scouts to move at the speed of the unit type that is paired with, then you need to meet the minimum number of villagers in an attack rule. i.e., if you need to send an attack consisting of a minimum of 50 villagers, and if you send 1 ram with scouts, a single ram takes up 5 villagers, so, you need to send 23 scouts with the ram to meet the minimum number of villagers in an attack rule (5 + (23 * 2) = 51).
When sending a combo fake attack, only send 1 single unit of the type other than scouts to minimize cost and meet the minimum villagers rule. This is because scouts are the cheapest unit in TW in terms of villagers count. A single scout cost 120 resources, but takes up 2 villagers. So each villagers effectively cost 60 resources, and this is cheaper than spears (cost 90).
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E5: How to effectively attack a player with multiple villages?
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If the player has 5 villages and you want to noble one of the villages, the most effective way is to send fake attacks to all the 5 villages and make sure all the fake attacks arrive within 1 minute of each other. When a player has many villages, the last thing you want the player to do is to gather all the defenses
from all his village and mass them up in a single village. It will be very costly to attack this way. By sending fake attacks to everyone of his villages, you forced the player to guess which attacks are real and which are fakes, thus forcing the player to disperse his defenses or gather his defenses at the wrong
place if he guessed wrongly. Try not to send real attacks at the main village if you use this strategy, as the player defending against this strategy will tend to gather better defenses at the main village.
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E6: Noble Train
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A noble train consist of at least 4 nobles, sent as separate attacks within a short interval. Since each noble would lower the loyalty of the village by 20 - 35, it is possible that the 3rd noble would take the village and thus you waste the 4th noble.
It is also possible that a train of 4 nobles could not take the village, because if each noble could only reduce the loyalty of the village by 20, it is only a total of 80 for 4 nobles. To ensure a take over, especially if the target village is very far away, you should send 5 nobles and be prepared to waste 1 noble.
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E7: Dodging an incoming attack
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Here are some possible reasons to dodge an incoming attack:
1. The attack was sent by mistake.
2. You just nobled a village and don't want to anger the player who used to farm the village.
3. You suspect that you can't survive the attack and want to build up more defenses or wait for more support before meeting the attack head on.
4. People usually send a clearing wave of attack to wipe out your defenses followed by a noble train to take your village. You could attempt to dodge the clearing wave and return to wipe out the noble train. However, take note that what you think is the clearing wave could be a fake attack.
Personally, I don't like to dodge an attack because:
1. Dodging an attack consisting of a noble does not do you any good, your village will be taken away if you keep on dodging.
2. Dodging an attack consisting of rams does not do you any good, because your wall will be demolished and a village without wall is not defensible.
3. Dodging an attack consisting of cats does not do you any good, because your wall or your buildings could be destroyed and if you keep on dodging, your village will eventually be completely destroyed.
4. Dodging an attack consisting of scouts does not do you any good, because without any defending scouts, your enemy is able to get all the information about your village. If you defend with your scouts, your enemy might only be able to get partial information or perhaps no information at all.
I prefer to gather all the defenses from all of my villages to defend against an incoming attack if the attack is only attacking one of my village.
Here are 3 possible methods to dodge an attack:
1. The first method is to simply send all your troops to support another village close by. This village should preferably be an abandoned village so that another player don't have the option to send your support back to you.
2. The second method is to support another village just before the attack arrives and cancel the support after the attack hits. This method could be employed to surf through as many waves of attacks as you like, assuming that the attacker does not destroy your rally point with cats.
3. The third method is to support another village way before the attack arrives, and retrieve the support just in time to dodge the first wave and defend the second wave. This method is used to dodge only once and it does not depend on whether the rally point is destroyed.
-------------------
E8: Nobling Snipers
-------------------
Basically a nobling sniper will scout around for a village that has been cleared and then send nobles to take it. If you see a 6k points village without defenses, do not be too happy and assumed that the idiotic player didn't build any defenses. Most likely someone has wiped out all the defenses.
If you noble such a village, you are classified as a nobling sniper. Another player went through all the pains to wipe out the village and you simply reap the fruits of his/her labor. Nobling snipers generate a lot of hatred and bad blood, because typically the noble of the player who wiped out the village would end up getting killed when the nobling sniper takes over the village.
Some players supports this method of nobling as smart and efficient but most players hate this kind of practice. Imagine if a nobling sniper take your village away and kill your noble, how would you feel? If you intend to be a nobling sniper, be prepared for any retaliative attacks.
In short, a village that has been cleared belongs to the player who could prove that he/she cleared it. If you attack with a noble after such a village has been cleared, you're classified as a nobling sniper.
-----------------
E9: Rams and Cats
-----------------
Rams demolishes the village wall before an attack, effectively rendering a fraction of the wall useless before the attack begins, and is therefore essential in any serious attacks. The effectiveness of rams is dependent on the size of the offensive force you bring with it and the size of the defensive force you are up against. Rams are more effective when the the offensive force is much more powerful than the defensive force. Typically, 300 rams is good enough to demolish a level 20 wall, unless the defenses is strong. Try to have 100 rams for every 1,000 LCs that you use, if not, your rams will die excessively.
Cats can be used to target a village wall, but it does not destroy a village wall before the battle begins. Cats are less effective in
destroying a village wall when compared to rams.
Cats are typically used to disable a village or turn a village into a farm.
Here are some hot targets:
1. Rally point - Prevent the defender from moving or recalling defenses.
2. Farm - Prevent the defender from building more troops.
3. HQ - Prevent the defender from demolishing buildings (If HQ is more than level 15) and slow down the construction speed of the defender.
4. Market - Prevent the defender from moving resources away.
Remember that there is a minimum level of level 1 for these buildings:
1. HQ
2. Farm
3. Warehouse
Also, the hiding place can't be targeted.
To disable a village, typically destroying the rally point and farm will do the trick. To turn the village into farm, destroy the rally point, farm and HQ. You typically don't have to destroy the
barracks/stable/workshop/smithy because destroying the farm will prevent troops building anyway.
Here is the recommended sequence of destroying a village:
1. Rally point
2. Farm
3. HQ
4. Market
It can get a little confusing at times, so if there is something you don't understand, by all means, just ask me, and I will explain.
Contents
________________________________________________________________________________________________
A: Troop guild lines
B: Defensive guide
B1: How to pick the ultimate defensive units ratio?
B2: How to pick the ultimate offensive units ratio?
B3: Finally We are Running some Simulations
B4: Some concluding thoughts
C: Definitions of village types
C1: Purpose of Village Specialization
C1a: What you should do if you have only 1 village?
C1b: What you should do if you have 2 villages?
C1c: What you should do if you have 3 villages?
C1d: What you should do if you have 4 villages or more?
C2: Why do I prefer LCs to all other offensive units?
C3: Pure defensive village VS Combo defensive village
C4: Pure LCs/MAs/axes offensive village VS combo offensive village
D: Farming guide
D1: Basic Farmer
D2: Intermediate Farmer
D3: Advanced Farmer
E: Advanced TW strategies
E1: Defense
E2: Offense
E3: Scouting
E4: What is a fake attack?
E5: How to effectively attack a player with multiple villages?
E6: Noble Train
E7: Dodging an incoming attack
E8: Nobling Snipers
E9: Rams and Cats
________________________________________________________________________________________________
-------------------
A: Troop guildlines
-------------------
Villages of 1,000–1,500 points: Level 16 wall and 0.7 defensive troops to point ratio.
Villages of 1,500–2,000 points: Level 18 wall and 0.8 defensive troops to point ratio.
Villages of 2,000–3,000 points: Level 20 wall and 0.9 defensive troops to point ratio.
Villages of >3,000 points: Level 20 wall and at least 3,200 defensive troops.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
------------------
B: Defensive guide
------------------
The purpose of this document is to share my meager experiences and understandings with offense and defense in TW. This document is going to be quite long, so you might want to skip it now if you don't have time. Please do not share this document with anyone outside our tribe as it concerns various defense/offense strategy that we might choose to adopt. Please feel free to give positive or negative comments or any corrections
regarding this document.
---------------------------------------------------
B1: How to pick the ultimate defensive units ratio?
---------------------------------------------------
I would like to propose that the use of the offense/defense simulator should be reserved only for one purpose, and that is to test the result of your attack before actually making it. I would like to propose that the use of the simulator will tend to confuse you if you make extensive use of it to determine the best ratio for defensive units. It will also tend to confuse you if you are trying to pick the best offense units ratio. I will discuss offensive units ratio in the next section.
If you do not use the simulator, how do you determine the best defensive units ratio? The answer is actually more simple and straightforward than you could imagine.
For all units, there are 3 defense parameters. They are General Defense (GD), Cavalry Defense (CD) and Archer Defense (AD).
Let's look at the GD/CD/AD of the 3 defensive units (minus the heavy cavalry.):
--
Spears: 15/45/20
Total of GD/CD/AD added up is: 80
Cost: 90 resources and 1 villager
Swords: 50/15/40
Total of GD/CD/AD added up is: 105
Cost: 130 resources and 1 villager
Archers: 50/40/5
Total of GD/CD/AD added up is: 95
Cost: 190 resources and 1 villager
--
I went into such details because I would like to ask 2 questions:
1. Does the total of the GD/CD/AD matter?
2. Why is it that every single unit has some kind of weakness?
For the first question:
Does the total of the GD/CD/AD matter?
--
The total of the GD/CD/AD does matter!! It matters so much that you wouldn't believe it. This is because the total of the GD/CD/AD are your defense power against the 3 kinds of offensive units, the more you have, the more you are able to withstand the 3 kinds of offensive attacks. Now, take note of which two units have the highest GD/CD/AD total.
--
For the second question:
Why is it that every single unit has some kind of weakness?
--
This question is the very reason for a defensive unit ratio. Each of the 3 defense units alone will have a weakness, but if you put 2 or more of these units together, their defensive strength averages up and the strength of one defensive unit cancels out the weakness of another!
Another way to look at this is that when you combine 2 or more different units together, you essential created a new kind of unit with the defensive strength of the average of the 2 or more kind.
For example, if you put a spear and a sword together, you get:
spear: 15/45/20
sword: 50/15/40
Together: 32.5/30/30
GD = (15+50)/2 = 32.5
CD = (45+15)/2 = 30
AD = (20+40)/2 = 30
Therefore, when you put the spear and the sword together, you have created or designed a new unit with GD/CD/AD of 32.5/30/30. This might be a paradigm shift for some of you, but I want you to keep this concept in mind.
--
Since the number of villagers for each village is limited by a level 30 farm, which supports 24,000 villagers, you have to be extremely selective about the kind of defensive units you have so as to maximize your defensive strength.
Now let's look at 3 reasonable and common ratios for defensive units:
--
spears/swords 1:1 ratio
GD/CD/AD: 32.5/30/30
Total GD/CD/AD: 92.5
spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio
GD/CD/AD: 38.33/33.33/21.66
Total GD/CD/AD: 93.32
swords/archers 1:1 ratio
GD/CD/AD: 50/27.5/22.5
Total GD/CD/AD: 100
--
Remember I told you that you should not use a simulator when determining defensive unit ratio? The simple reason is that you could average up the GD/CD/AD of the ratio you chose and determine the best ratio just by looking at the GD/CD/AD of the ratio you created. Another point is that the total GD/CD/AD is very important as the higher your total GD/CD/AD, the more defense you have generally (This is especially crucial if your attacker could not scout you successfully.)
If we classify defense strength as follows:
10 - 20: poor
20 - 30: average
30 - 40: good
40 - 50: excellent
The "spears/swords 1:1 ratio" has a low good defense for GD and
average defense for everything else.
The "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" has good defense for GD, good defense for CD and average defense for AD.
The "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" has godly defense for GD, and average defense for both CD and AD. However, notice that the CD is higher than AD.
Now, isn't this much simpler and clear than running a few hundred
simulations? I will promise you that it will become even more clear if you read my section on the offense ratio.
I would propose that we should pick the ultimate defense ratio based on 2 criteria:
1. Total GD/CD/AD.
2. The villagers/performance ratio of the offense units.
If we based our decision solely on the total GD/CD/AD, the
"swords/archers 1:1 ratio" wins.
What is the villagers/performance ratio of the offensive units?
--
The villagers/performance ratio of the offensive units is the amount of offensive strength you get for each villager you use on an offensive unit.
Thefore, here are the villagers/performance ratio of axemen, light cavalry and mounted archer:
--
axemen:
villagers: 1
offensive strength: 40
villagers/performance ratio: 40/1 = 40
light cavalry:
villagers: 4
offensive strength: 130
villagers/performance ratio: 130/4 = 32.5
mounted archer:
villagers: 5
offensive strength: 120
villagers/performance ratio: 120/5 = 24
--
Based on the villagers/performance ratio, if we know that the largest offensive force can only consist of an army made up of 23,000 villagers, we could have 23,000 axemen OR 5,750 light cavalry (23000/4) OR 4,600 mounted archers (23000/5).
Total maximum offensive strength of axemen = 23,000 * 40 = 920,000
Total maximum offensive strength of light cavalry = 5,750 * 130 = 747,500
Total maximum offensive strength of axemen = 4,600 * 120 = 552,000
Based on the information provided by the maximum offensive strength of each offensive units, you want a lot of defense for axemen, followed by a lesser amount for light cavalary and an even lesser amount for mounted archer.
The "spears/swords 1:1 ratio" has only a low good defense (GD: 32.5) against axemen, so it will suffer greatly against an axemen attack, so this ratio is out.
The "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" has good defense against axemen and light cavalry and also adequate defense against mounted archers.
The "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" has a godly defense against axemen (GD: 50), very nice! Furthermore, it has average but adequate defenses against the light cavalry and mounted archers.
From the above analysis, "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" is superior to "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" when defending against light cavalry, however, the "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" is significantly more superior to "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" when it comes to axemen defense. Therefore, it would be a personal preference on whether to pick either the "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio" or "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" as each has it's own strength.
However, I feel that the "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" is superior because it has a higher total GD/CD/AD than "spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio"
and would fare better on a mixed offensive force comprising of axemen, light cavalry and mounted archers.
---------------------------------------------------
B2: How to pick the ultimate offensive units ratio?
---------------------------------------------------
If a defender has 123 spears, 251 swords, 80 archers, 50 light cavalry and 200 axemen, how do you pick your offensive units ratio? Would you use the simulator again? Is there an easier way? The answer is yes!
Some people recommend that you should use light cavalry against swords, axemen against spears and mounted archer against archer. But unfortunately, life is not so simple when you face 123 spears, 251 swords, 80 archers, 50 light cavalry and 200 axemen. Furthermore, the combat system in TW is such that when you face such a diverse army, it is not the case that your
axemen will fight only against the defender's spears and slaughter them only, but that your axemen has to fight spears, swords, archers, light cavalry and also axemen all together! Units like swords and archers will slaughter your axemen.
So, what is the best way to determine the best offensive force to use against a diverse defensive army? The easiest and most effective way is to total up all the defensive strength (GD/CD/AD) for all the defensive force and use only one type of offensive unit that is best against the weakest total defensive strength of the diverse army. I know this might sound complex, but let me give you a simple example:
--
If you face a diverse army of 1 spear, 2 archers and 3 swords, here are their GD/CD/AD:
spear: 15/45/20
sword: 50/15/40
archer: 50/40/5
(3 swords is 150/30/120)
(2 archers is 100/80/10)
Total for 1 spear, 2 archers and 3 swords is: 265/155/150
This means that this diverse defense force is the weakest on AD (150 only), so you should send in only mounted archers. Some might ask: should I also send in my extra axemen? This is a very crucial question and the answer is: "Not if you can help it". For this case, if you have enough mounted archers to nicely defeat the defender, then you should never send in any other offensive
units. This is because for example, if you send axemen in addition to mounted archers, your axemen is fighting against a stronger GD (265!!) while your mounted archers is fighting against a weak AD (150 only). Your axemen will suffer a larger casualty compared to your mounted archers and therefore sending your axemen will mess things up and increase your overall casualties. If you don't believe this, run a few simulations and you will see the light.
As an attacker, keep this powerful thought in mind: You get to pick the defense (GD/CD/AD) that you fight against. Pick the weakest!!!
--
All these offensive strategy is based on the assumption that you could successfully scout your enemy. Therefore scouting is of paramount importance, it is like winning half the battle. I guess it is understandable that people devote a whole village to producing scouts. Also, try your best not to let your enemy scout your village, but however, even if they managed to scout your village, the "swords/archers 1:1 ratio" ensures that you have the
best chance of survival. In fact, in the next section you will learn that no single offensive force exist in TW to defeat the ultimate
"swords/archers 1:1 ratio" defense force.
-------------------------------------------
B3: Finally We are Running some Simulations
-------------------------------------------
Let's run simulations on our best defensive units ratio against the 3 largest offensive force possible. The defense force and offense force will each comprise of 23,000 villagers.
Based on the "swords/archers 1:1 ratio", we have 11,500 swords and 11,500 archers, protected by a level 20 wall.
23,000 axemen vs 11,500 archers/11,500 swords (level 20 wall):
--
Attacker: 23,000 axemen
Attacker casulties: 23,000 axemen
Defender: 11,500 archers/11,500 swords
Defender casulties: 2,765 archers/2,765 swords
--
WOW!! The defenders lost so little and slaughtered the largest axemen army in TW. Infact, the defenders could slaughter 3 such armies in a row and only get slaughtered by the 4th army of 23,000 axemen if you run the simulator a few times, each round decreasing the number of defenders casulties.
5,750 light cavalry vs 11,500 archers/11,500 swords (level 20 wall):
--
Attacker: 5,750 light cavalry
Attacker casulties: 5,750 light cavalry
Defender: 11,500 archers/11,500 swords
Defender casulties: 4,962 archers/4,962 swords
--
4,600 mounted archer vs 11,500 archers/11,500 swords (level 20 wall):
--
Attacker: 4,600 mounted archer
Attacker casulties: 4,600 mounted archer
Defender: 11,500 archers/11,500 swords
Defender casulties: 4,254 archers/4,254 swords
--
When attacked by light cavalry or mounted archers, the defenders lost less than 50% of the army. Also, the defenders are able to slaughter 2 full rounds of mounted archers attackers and almost 2 full rounds of light cavalry before getting annihilated.
----------------------------
B4: Some concluding thoughts
----------------------------
Imagine you have 2 villages with 11,500 archers/11,500 swords in each village. Imagine that these 2 villages are only next to each other. When one village is under massive attack, you send all the 11,500 archers/11,500 swords from the unattacked village to support the attacked village. What kind of offensive army will be needed to defeat this strategy? What if you have 3 such villages? Your attackers will be so depressed when you keep slaughtering their forces.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
-------------------------------
C: Definitions of village types
-------------------------------
Offensive units - LCs, MAs, axes.
Defensive units - spears, swords, archers, HCs. (Just treat HCs as 4 swords during defense and 6 swords during offense. Since HCs are so similar to swords, I classify HC as a defensive unit.)
Mixed village - This village has a mix of offensive and defensive units.
Pure defensive village - This village only has defensive units, and the defensive units are only limited to spears/swords/archers.
Combo defensive village - This village only has defensive units, and the defensive units are spears/swords/archers and HCs.
Pure LCs offensive village - This village only has LCs and rams/cats as offensive units.
Pure axes offensive village - This village only has axes and rams/cats as offensive units.
Pure MAs offensive village - This village only has MAs and rams/cats as offensive units.
Combo offensive village - This village consist of "LCs and axes" OR "MAs and axes" and rams/cats as offensive units.
Trashy offensive village - This village consist of LCs AND MAs AND axes. If you read my guide on offense/defense, there is no such thing as an offensive ratio, so anyone who believes in an offensive ratio is seriously deluded. So, never build a trashy offensive village consisting of all the offensive unit types.
Pure scouts village - This village only has scouts.
-------------------------------------
C1: Purpose of Village Specialization
-------------------------------------
Each village can only support a maximum 24,000 villagers. Therefore, it is of paramount importance that you should be very selective of how you want to use these limited amount of villages because these villages limits the following:
1. The maximum number of offensive/defensive units you could build.
2. The buildings you could build.
Assuming that you have devoted 2,000 villagers to buildings, you are left with 22,000 villagers for units. Therefore, 22,000 villagers is your limit for this village and it is what you could work with. If you devote 11,000 villagers for offensive units, then you are left with 11,000 villagers for defensive units.
As you could easily figure out, the larger the size of your offensive units, the easier it is to wipe out your enemy. Therefore, when you have multiple villages, you would ALWAYS want to specialize your villages. The villagers limit does not affect your defensive units as much as your offensive units as you could
easily gather defensive units from other villages. So, it is theoretically possible to have 100,000 swords, 100,000 archers and 100,000 spears defending a single village due to support from other villages. However, a single wave of your offensive force can only consist of a maximum of 24,000 villages (minus
the villagers for your buildings), so you want to devote as many villagers as you possibly can on offensive units so as to maximize the damage you could inflict in a single wave of attack.
---------------------------------------------------
C1a: What you should do if you have only 1 village?
---------------------------------------------------
Your first village should not be specialized until you have more villages. I would recommend build LCs ONLY, in addition to your spears/swords/archers. Use your spears/swords/archers to farm nearby villages and LCs to farm villages far away. If you are diligent in building your troops, you should have pretty good defenses and about 2,000 LCs by the time you want to noble a village.
-----------------------------------------------
C1b: What you should do if you have 2 villages?
-----------------------------------------------
You should continue to build up your first village as a mixed village and your second village as a defensive village. Only build spears/swords/archers in your second village for now. The second village should preferably be close to your first village for mutual support. I will discuss more about your options for a defensive village later in this guide.
-----------------------------------------------
C1c: What you should do if you have 3 villages?
-----------------------------------------------
When you have 3 villages, your third village should be an offensive village. I would recommend a pure LCs offensive village for your third village for farming and attack purposes. Your second village should remain as a defensive village and your first village should slowly transit to a pure defensive village. Why do I recommend your first village be a pure defensive village onsisting only of spears/swords/archers? This is because your first village
comes with a paladin, and during a support mission, your spears/swords/archers move at the speed of your accompanying paladin. So, you could treat your first village as a super strong and highly mobile defense to be used when your other villages are under attack. After you have sufficiently built up your third village as a pure LCs offensive village, you should slowly kill off the LCs in your first village and transit your first village to a pure defensive village.
-------------------------------------------------------
C1d: What you should do if you have 4 villages or more?
-------------------------------------------------------
After you obtain your 4th village, you could build any ratio of offensive and defensive village, depending on your playing style. If you are a highly defensive player, you could build 2 or 3 defensive villages for every one offensive village. If you are a highly offensive player, you could build 1 defensive village for 1 offensive village or 1 defensive village for 2 offensive village and so on. At some point, you would want to build a pure scout village with 11k scouts.
-----------------------------------------------------
C2: Why do I prefer LCs to all other offensive units?
-----------------------------------------------------
Here are the reasons:
1. LCs are super good at farming and I'm a hardcore farmer.
2. LCs builds much faster than MAs or axes in terms of offensive strength.
3. LCs use up a lot of my spare iron.
-----------------------------------------------------
C3: Pure defensive village VS Combo defensive village
-----------------------------------------------------
Pure defensive village - This village only has defensive units, and the defensive units are only limited to spears/swords/archers.
Combo defensive village - This village only has defensive units, and the defensive units are spears/swords/archers and HCs.
As you can see, the only difference is HCs. But why add HCs to the mix?
Here are a few reasons:
1. HCs are good for speedy support to your villages or the villages of your tribe members, especially since you have only 1 single paladin and you might not want to commit the paladin with your huge defense from your main village to somewhere else. You will begin to see the usefulness of HCs as you have more and more villages.
2. HCs are built by the stable, so you could use your barracks to build your spears/swords/archers and concurrently use your stable to build HCs. Let me assure you that your spears/swords/archers build very very slowly even with level 25 barracks. So, you could build up a stronger defense in a shorter time when you use your barracks and stable concurrently.
------------------------------------------------------------------
C4: Pure LCs/MAs/axes offensive village VS combo offensive village
------------------------------------------------------------------
Pure LCs offensive village - This village only has LCs and rams/cats as offensive units.
Pure axes offensive village - This village only has axes and rams/cats as offensive units.
Pure MAs offensive village - This village only has MAs and rams/cats as offensive units.
Combo offensive village - This village consist of "LCs and axes" OR "MAs and axes" and rams/cats as offensive units.
If you read my guide on offense/defense, a pure offensive force is able to strike more effectively, i.e., cause more damage and take less casualties than a combo offensive force. However, a pure offensive village takes a longer time to build and rebuild. The only reason for a combo offensive village consisting of "LCs and axes" OR "MAs and axes" is that you could use your barracks and stable concurrently, thus building and rebuilding your offensive
forces faster than a pure offensive village. Take note that using your barracks and stable concurrently is very resource intensive. I would recommend the combo offensive village only if you are a very aggressive player (i.e., attack someone everyday.). An averagely aggressive player would do very well with a pure offensive village.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
----------------
D: Farming guide
----------------
To become extremely powerful in TW, you MUST farm
My dear fellow tribe members, let me make a very profound statement to you. To become extremely powerful in TW, you MUST farm and you MUST farm a lot.
Then you ask: How many resources can I possibly farm? Is it significant?
You could get 2,619 resources from an abandoned village with the lowest possible point, if the village is filled to the fullest with produced resources. Imagine that you farm 15 of these tiny villages 2 time a day (total of 30 times a day). That is a total of 78,570 resources extra!! Of course, you don't always get to farm a village that is full. Even if every time you farm, the villages are half full, you would still get 39,285 resources extra a day. 39k resources a day is 390k resources in 10 days and in a month, you will get more than 1 million resources extra!! Using these extra resources, you get to build a bigger army and a better village than your neighbors. All these resources add up day after day and slowly, you will be stronger and stronger than your neighbors.
Now, imagine that you purposely disable a few 500/1000 points village such that they don't have defenses, the resources that was farm could increase dramatically!
You do have to spend extra time sending troops to farm villages, but that is the price you have to pay to become more powerful faster than all your peers. The choice is yours to make.
Look around my village. It is not hard to notice that I am much stronger than all my neighbors. My secret is simply that I farm a lot!
Here are some suggestions on how you could be a better farmer:
----------------
D1: Basic Farmer
----------------
1. Use anything you have to farm, may it be spears/swords/archers/axemen.
2. Spears are superior to swords/archers/axemen for farming.
3. Farm any abandoned villages close to you.
4. Farm any non-abandoned villages that are 100 to 200 points. Scout these villages before sending troops if possible. Look at the twplus graph to determine if these villages are not growing for some time.
4. Try to build LCs as soon as possible. Don't build any MAs as MAs are not good for farming.
-----------------------
D2: Intermediate Farmer
-----------------------
1. You already have between 200 to 500 LCs.
2. You have disabled a few villages of about 500 points and turned them into productive farms.
3. You are farming many villages within 10 fields of your village.
-------------------
D3: Advanced Farmer
-------------------
1. You have more than 1,000 LCs with at least 100 rams and 100 cats.
2. You have disabled a few villages of 1,000 points or more and turned them into extremely productive farms.
3. You are farming all the farmable villages within 10 fields of your village.
4. Even at this level, don't be afraid to use your defensive units like spears/swords/archers for farming nearby villages. You could use defensive units to farm nearby villages and LCs to farm far away villages as this will allow you to farm more villages.
________________________________________________________________________________________________
-------------------------
E: Advanced TW strategies
-------------------------
-----------
E1: Defense
-----------
I've seen this too often so I'll repeat it again. Do not EVER use offensive units for defense or defensive units for offense. Offensive units are LCs/MAs/axes and defensive units are spears/swords/archers/HCs. Treat HCs as 4 swords during defense and 6 swords during offense.
Here are the typical defensive ratios:
--------------------
swords/archers 1:1 ratio:
1. Best defensive ratio.
2. Most costly and takes the longest time to build.
3. Super strong against axes and defensive units.
--------------------
spears/swords/archers 1:1:1 ratio:
1. Second best defensive ratio.
2. Strong against LCs.
--------------------
spears/swords 1:1 ratio:
1. Third best defensive ratio.
2. Very fast and cheap to build.
2. Weak against axes and defensive units but strongest
of the 3 ratios against MAs.
--------------------
-----------
E2: Offense
-----------
There is no such thing as an offensive ratio. The most effective offense is to send a pure LCs or MAs or axes offensive force against the weakness of the village. i.e., send LCs only when you see more swords or HCs. Send axes only if you see more spears and send MAs only if you see more spears or archers. As you can see, MAs replaces the function of axes. So, you could have many
pure LCs pure offensive village and perhaps one pure MAs offensive village for extremely skewed defenses.
Personally, I feel that the best offensive unit in the game are LCs because:
1. LCs are super good at farming and I'm a hardcore farmer.
2. LCs builds much faster than MAs or axes in terms of offensive strength.
3. LCs use up a lot of my spare iron.
------------
E3: Scouting
------------
NEVER attack a village without successfully scouting it first. I repeat, NEVER attack a village without successfully scouting it first. If you make this mistake, you might get away for a while, but it will cost you dearly, eventually. NEVER make a judgment on the defenses of a village based on its points. To know the truth, you must scout it.
To ensure a successful scout, build a pure scouts village with 11k scouts.
To defend against 11k scouts, build 2 pure scouts village with 11k scouts each.
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E4: What is a fake attack?
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A fake attack is defined as an attack that seeks to distract the defender from the real attack. It could also be used as a mere disturbance to the defender.
The cheapest fake attack consist of 5 scouts. If you have a combo fake attack pairing scouts with any other unit type, thus forcing the scouts to move at the speed of the unit type that is paired with, then you need to meet the minimum number of villagers in an attack rule. i.e., if you need to send an attack consisting of a minimum of 50 villagers, and if you send 1 ram with scouts, a single ram takes up 5 villagers, so, you need to send 23 scouts with the ram to meet the minimum number of villagers in an attack rule (5 + (23 * 2) = 51).
When sending a combo fake attack, only send 1 single unit of the type other than scouts to minimize cost and meet the minimum villagers rule. This is because scouts are the cheapest unit in TW in terms of villagers count. A single scout cost 120 resources, but takes up 2 villagers. So each villagers effectively cost 60 resources, and this is cheaper than spears (cost 90).
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E5: How to effectively attack a player with multiple villages?
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If the player has 5 villages and you want to noble one of the villages, the most effective way is to send fake attacks to all the 5 villages and make sure all the fake attacks arrive within 1 minute of each other. When a player has many villages, the last thing you want the player to do is to gather all the defenses
from all his village and mass them up in a single village. It will be very costly to attack this way. By sending fake attacks to everyone of his villages, you forced the player to guess which attacks are real and which are fakes, thus forcing the player to disperse his defenses or gather his defenses at the wrong
place if he guessed wrongly. Try not to send real attacks at the main village if you use this strategy, as the player defending against this strategy will tend to gather better defenses at the main village.
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E6: Noble Train
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A noble train consist of at least 4 nobles, sent as separate attacks within a short interval. Since each noble would lower the loyalty of the village by 20 - 35, it is possible that the 3rd noble would take the village and thus you waste the 4th noble.
It is also possible that a train of 4 nobles could not take the village, because if each noble could only reduce the loyalty of the village by 20, it is only a total of 80 for 4 nobles. To ensure a take over, especially if the target village is very far away, you should send 5 nobles and be prepared to waste 1 noble.
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E7: Dodging an incoming attack
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Here are some possible reasons to dodge an incoming attack:
1. The attack was sent by mistake.
2. You just nobled a village and don't want to anger the player who used to farm the village.
3. You suspect that you can't survive the attack and want to build up more defenses or wait for more support before meeting the attack head on.
4. People usually send a clearing wave of attack to wipe out your defenses followed by a noble train to take your village. You could attempt to dodge the clearing wave and return to wipe out the noble train. However, take note that what you think is the clearing wave could be a fake attack.
Personally, I don't like to dodge an attack because:
1. Dodging an attack consisting of a noble does not do you any good, your village will be taken away if you keep on dodging.
2. Dodging an attack consisting of rams does not do you any good, because your wall will be demolished and a village without wall is not defensible.
3. Dodging an attack consisting of cats does not do you any good, because your wall or your buildings could be destroyed and if you keep on dodging, your village will eventually be completely destroyed.
4. Dodging an attack consisting of scouts does not do you any good, because without any defending scouts, your enemy is able to get all the information about your village. If you defend with your scouts, your enemy might only be able to get partial information or perhaps no information at all.
I prefer to gather all the defenses from all of my villages to defend against an incoming attack if the attack is only attacking one of my village.
Here are 3 possible methods to dodge an attack:
1. The first method is to simply send all your troops to support another village close by. This village should preferably be an abandoned village so that another player don't have the option to send your support back to you.
2. The second method is to support another village just before the attack arrives and cancel the support after the attack hits. This method could be employed to surf through as many waves of attacks as you like, assuming that the attacker does not destroy your rally point with cats.
3. The third method is to support another village way before the attack arrives, and retrieve the support just in time to dodge the first wave and defend the second wave. This method is used to dodge only once and it does not depend on whether the rally point is destroyed.
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E8: Nobling Snipers
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Basically a nobling sniper will scout around for a village that has been cleared and then send nobles to take it. If you see a 6k points village without defenses, do not be too happy and assumed that the idiotic player didn't build any defenses. Most likely someone has wiped out all the defenses.
If you noble such a village, you are classified as a nobling sniper. Another player went through all the pains to wipe out the village and you simply reap the fruits of his/her labor. Nobling snipers generate a lot of hatred and bad blood, because typically the noble of the player who wiped out the village would end up getting killed when the nobling sniper takes over the village.
Some players supports this method of nobling as smart and efficient but most players hate this kind of practice. Imagine if a nobling sniper take your village away and kill your noble, how would you feel? If you intend to be a nobling sniper, be prepared for any retaliative attacks.
In short, a village that has been cleared belongs to the player who could prove that he/she cleared it. If you attack with a noble after such a village has been cleared, you're classified as a nobling sniper.
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E9: Rams and Cats
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Rams demolishes the village wall before an attack, effectively rendering a fraction of the wall useless before the attack begins, and is therefore essential in any serious attacks. The effectiveness of rams is dependent on the size of the offensive force you bring with it and the size of the defensive force you are up against. Rams are more effective when the the offensive force is much more powerful than the defensive force. Typically, 300 rams is good enough to demolish a level 20 wall, unless the defenses is strong. Try to have 100 rams for every 1,000 LCs that you use, if not, your rams will die excessively.
Cats can be used to target a village wall, but it does not destroy a village wall before the battle begins. Cats are less effective in
destroying a village wall when compared to rams.
Cats are typically used to disable a village or turn a village into a farm.
Here are some hot targets:
1. Rally point - Prevent the defender from moving or recalling defenses.
2. Farm - Prevent the defender from building more troops.
3. HQ - Prevent the defender from demolishing buildings (If HQ is more than level 15) and slow down the construction speed of the defender.
4. Market - Prevent the defender from moving resources away.
Remember that there is a minimum level of level 1 for these buildings:
1. HQ
2. Farm
3. Warehouse
Also, the hiding place can't be targeted.
To disable a village, typically destroying the rally point and farm will do the trick. To turn the village into farm, destroy the rally point, farm and HQ. You typically don't have to destroy the
barracks/stable/workshop/smithy because destroying the farm will prevent troops building anyway.
Here is the recommended sequence of destroying a village:
1. Rally point
2. Farm
3. HQ
4. Market
3moons- Tribal Duke
-
Number of posts : 21
Age : 58
Location : Indiana, USA
Registration date : 2008-09-16 -
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